This is the final instalment in my series about lifting your Ford Ranger. As we’ve seen, much of the time investment is just preparation for the actual installation. If you’ve done the prep work, this part should go very smoothly, with no surprises.
This guide is heavily based on Superlift’s latest instructions for the K358 kit. In fact, I’ll be quoting verbatim their steps here and offering comments, illustrations, additional information, and hopefully photos, where relevant. In addition, because the best time to do your coilover modification is while the front suspension has been taken apart, I’ll insert the steps for the coilover mod so you have a continuous how-to. Some of the Superlift steps will be marked as “skipped” because they are unnecessary if you’re doing the coilover swap.This post is part of a full series on lifting your late model Ford Ranger or Mazda B-Series:
- Chapter 1: Lift Basics
- Chapter 2: The Superlift K358 Kit
- Chapter 3: Wheels & Tires
- Chapter 4: Coilover Conversion Overview & Planning
- Chapter 5: Leaf Spring Swap Overview & Prep
- Chapter 6: Replacing the Leaf Springs
- Chapter 7: Installing the Superlift & Coilovers
- Appendix: Full Shopping List & Budget
If you’re an amateur mechanic, assume your truck will be on jack stands or the hoist for two solid days; don’t count on being able to drive it for that amount of time.
Step-by-step Superlift and Coilover Instructions
|Superlift's Instructions||Additional Instructions and Comments||Coilover-Specific Instructions|
|1) PREPARE VEHICLE...|
Place vehicle in neutral. Raise front of vehicle with a jack and secure a jack stand beneath each frame rail, behind the lower control arms. Ease the frame down onto the stands, place transmission in low gear or “park”, and chock rear tires. Remove front tires.
|This assumes your vehicle is on a level surface. If there's a slight slope, like in a driveway, chock the rear wheels before jacking or your truck will go rolling into the street.|
|2) TORSION BAR REMOVAL...|
On each side, scribe alignment marks to note the torsion bar’s indexing in relation to the
adjuster arm. Also scribe marks to note the front end of the bar in relation to the lower control arm.
Label the bars (front / rear end, and driver / passenger side) because they must be reinstalled in the same position and orientation as they were removed.
|You don't need to mark the torsion bars for re-installation as you'll be discarding them.|
| [DIAGRAM 1] Remove the plate that covers the torsion bar adjuster arm assembly. The plate and attaching hardware will be reused, but not in the same location. So go ahead and￼remove the nut clips from the crossmember lips.||Leave the nut clips where they are after removing the plate. The plate will go back into the same location.|
| [DIAGRAM 2] Load the bars using a torsion bar puller tool ... and remove the adjusting bolt and nut block. Unload the bar.||Refer to Chapter 2: The Superlift K358 Kit for comments on the tool to use. If you are not doing coilovers yet, you need to use one of the recommended tools (as opposed to a universal one.) U-shaped Universal tools are OK to remove, but useless to reinstall the t-bars after the drop bracket is in place.|
| On each side, slide the torsion bar forward into the|
Lower Control Arm (LCA) and the adjuster arm and insulator will fall free.
The insulator is a rectangular shaped block located directly above the adjuster arm.
|This is the part where your torsion bars come right off the truck and you set them aside.||The insulators are no longer necessary with coilovers. With the torsion bars removed, you can re-install the plates.|
|Steps 3 through 7 are performed one side at a time. Start at the driver’s side.|
|3) SWAY BAR LINK and OUTER TIE ROD END...|
Disconnect the sway bar link from the sway bar body and the LCA.
| Remove the sway bar body. NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE BAR BODY BEFORE REMOVING.||You need to note the orientation because the sway bar will be re-installed upside-down so it can reach further down to the new sway bar links.|
| Use a puller tool to separate the outer tie rod end from the knuckle.||I was able to do this with some gentle tapping with a plastic hammer.|
|4) BRAKE CALIPER and ROTOR...|
Unbolt the brake caliper from the knuckle and tie it up and out of the way; the frame rail is a good anchor point. Do not detach the brake hose from the caliper or let the caliper “hang” from the hose.
|Use the frame rail and not the upper control arm!||Since you'll be putting on the longer brake hoses, you could remove the caliper altogether, but then you'd have to deal with all the fluid dripping out of it, so we'll save the step until it's time to re-install the caliper.|
| Remove the brake rotor and dust shield.|
For vehicles equipped with vacuum operated hubs: Use a hub puller tool to remove the locking hub assembly from the hub. If a puller is not available, carefully use a flat head screwdriver to pry the locking hub free. Remove the metal/plastic retainer ring on the CV axle stub shaft.
|Pre-2006 models only|
| For vehicles without vacuum operated hubs: Remove the CV axle nut. Retain.||2006 and later models|
| Disconnect the vacuum hose, and if equipped, the harness that captures the ABS wiring.|
Both are located on the back side of the knuckle.
|Vacuum hose is only for pre-2006 models.|
| Using a plastic hammer, drive the axleshaft inward until it is loose inside the knuckle.|
| Remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt.|
| Remove the LCA ball joint cotter pin and castellated nut. The knuckle is now held only by the lower ball joint. Use a puller tool to free the joint then set the knuckle aside. Take care not to damage the seal which is press-fitted into the back side of the knuckle. If in good condition, the seal can be reused in the new Superlift knuckle (installed in a later step).||The seal is only present in pre-2006 models.|
|6) FACTORY SHOCK ABSORBER...|
Place a jack under the LCA and raise it to a level position.
|This is to take any tension off the shock absorber bolts for easy removal.|
| Remove and discard the factory shock absorber|
|7) LOWER CONTROL ARM...|
Remove the two LCA-to-frame bolts and set the arm aside.
|Perform Steps 3 through 7 on passenger’s side.|
|8) DRIVESHAFT ...|
Scribe an alignment mark on the driveshaft and front axle pinion flange. Disconnect the axle
end of the shaft and let it hang. Wrap the U-joint with tape to prevent the caps from coming off.
|Don't bother with scribing the alignment mark if you're replacing the driveshaft (which you should!) |
Now is actually a good time to completely remove the old front driveshaft. The old driveshaft comes off by removing the hex nuts at the transfer case end and by maneuvering it forwards between exhaust and heat shield. Be careful of nearby wiring harness.
Don't bolt the new driveshaft to the front differential end yet, as subsequent steps will have you removing the front axle.
|9) FRONT DIFFERENTIAL / AXLE ASSEMBLY...|
Disconnect the differential vent hose from the differential.
| Position a jack beneath the front differential.||..or some sort of support, because when you unbolt it you don't want it to just fall off.|
| The assembly attaches to the frame at three points: 1 - driver side / front|
2 - driver side / rear
3 - passenger side
Remove the bolt at each point and carefully lower the assembly to the floor.
|This is much easier with an assistant.|
|10) COMPRESSION STOP BRACKETS:|
#55-09-9630 DRIVER SIDE,
#55-10-9630 PASSENGER SIDE, and
#55-08-9630 LATERAL SUPPORT BRACKET for the DIFFERENTIAL...
The compression stop brackets space down the factory rubber compression travel snubbers. Note that the only difference between the “09” driver and “10” passenger side brackets is that the passenger side is 1/4” shorter. Each bracket has an alignment pin on the top end that
mates to the factory mount.
| On the passenger side, the “08” bracket seats against the bottom of the frame rail, as shown in [DIAGRAM 3]. The “10” spacer bracket goes next with the factory rubber snubber mated to it’s bottom. All are held in place by one new 8mm x 120mm bolt that goes through the entire assembly and threads into the factory mounting hole. Hand tighten only; this bolt is fully tightened after the differential is hung in a later step.||You won't be using the Superlift compression stop brackets so you can skip installing them after you've removed the factory bump stops. However, the differential lateral support bracket does need to be installed as Superlift instructs, so I'd suggest using a temporary bolt in the inboard hole to hold it against the passenger side frame rail.|
| The driver side “09” spacer installs the same way, except there is no “08” bracket. Tighten the 8mm bolt (18-26).||Skip this entirely, other than removing the factory bump stop.|
|11) DIFFERENTIAL BRACKETS:|
#55-21-9636 DRIVER SIDE / REAR,
#55-04-9630 (qty. 2) for DRIVER SIDE /
FRONT and PASSENGER SIDE
| [DIAGRAM 3] Remove the three bolts that attach the factory driver side / rear bracket to the differential housing as well as the vibration dampener attached to it. Bolt the dampener to the “21” bracket and then attach the assembly in the factory position using the factory hardware (25-35). Insert the Polyurethane bushing halves and wear sleeve into the bracket eye ring.||My truck did not have a vibration dampener.|
| Loosely attach the remaining two “04” brackets to the frame. Use the factory bolts, pointing forward. Hand tighten only.|
| Use the jack to raise the differential assembly into place.||Two guys can each use one arm to lift the assembly into place while using their free hands to place the appropriate bolts through the holes.|
|At both front bracket positions, use 7/16”|
x 3-3/4” bolts pointing forward. Note that on the passenger side, the bolt also captures the “08” differential support bracket, as shown. Hand tighten only.
| Reuse the factory bolt at the driver side / rear bracket eye ring (45-59).|
| Tighten the two front bracket’s upper bolts (111-148), then their lower end bolts (135-156).|
| Tighten the passenger side compression stop bolt that also captures the outboard end of the “08” bracket (18-26)||You'll be tightening the temporary bolt.|
| Reconnect the differential vent line.|
| Match the alignment marks then reconnect the front driveshaft-to-differential (11-15).||There won't be any alignment marks with the new driveshaft.|
The new driveshaft goes in most easily if you remove the transfer case skid plate and maneuver it in from the rear of the vehicle. The bigger u-joint on the new driveshaft doesn't pass as easily through the front way, if at all.
|12) LCA CROSSMEMBER ASSEMBLIES:|
#55-05-9630 (qty. 4) CROSSMEMBER DROP BRACKET
#55-06-9630 FRONT CROSSMEMBER TUBE
| [DIAGRAM 4] Install the “05” brackets using the factory bolts. Install front bolts pointing rearward and rear bolts pointing forward; hand tighten only.|
| Install the crossmembers using the 3/8” x 1” bolts and Nyloc nuts; hand tighten only.||Two nuts were missing from my kit. Hopefully you checked your kit before today!|
|Except where noted, Steps 13 through 19 are performed one side at a time. Start at the driver’s side.|
|13) FACTORY LOWER CONTROL ARM (LCA)...|
Attach the LCA to the Superlift
LCA crossmember. Install new 5/8” x 5” bolts / Nyloc nuts pointing rearward; hand tighten only.
They are tightened in a later step when the suspension is supporting the vehicle’s weight.
| Tighten all sixteen of the 3/8” LCA crossmember bolts (23).|
| Tighten the bolts that connect the two Superlift crossmember assemblies to the factory LCA mounts.|
|14) STRIPPING THE FACTORY KNUCKLE|
Several items must be removed from the factory knuckle and installed onto the Superlift knuckle.
| 15) Remove the three bolts that attach the wheel bearing hub-to-knuckle. Take care not to damage the hub O-ring if you plan to reuse it.||O-ring not applicable to 2006 and later models.|
| For vehicles equipped with vacuum operated hubs: The axle half shaft main seal is located on the inboard side of the stock knuckle. Use a puller tool to remove the seal if you want to reuse it instead of purchasing a new one.||Not applicable to 2006 and later models.|
|15) SUPERLIFT KNUCKLE PRE-ASSEMBLY:|
#55-01-9636 DRIVER SIDE KNUCKLE,
#55-02-9636 PASS. SIDE KNUCKLE...
Install the components [that were] removed in Step 14 onto the Superlift knuckle.
| For vehicles equipped with vacuum operated hubs: Use a seating tool to install the axle half shaft main seal into the knuckle. Generously fill the sealing surface with Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease #E8TZ-19590-A or its equivalent.|
NOTE: Some hubs have a needle bearing in the wheel bearing assembly. If so equipped, lube the needle bearing generously with #E8TZ-19590-A grease or its equivalent.
|Not applicable to 2006 and later models.|
| Attach the wheel bearing hub to the knuckle with the three factory bolts (74-96). Take care not to damage the O-ring.||No o-ring on 2006 and later models.|
|16) UPPER CONTROL ARM CAM BOLTS...|
If your vehicle is equipped with round bolts instead of cam bolts (flat on one side), you will need to purchase a front alignment bolt kit from an alignment shop. Specialty Products #87500.
|Ingalls 29000 is another possible part #, which you've hopefully already got. If not, you can grind your factory bolts flat on one side using a bench grinder (you'll spend a fair bit of time on this.)|
| Examine the bolts attaching the legs of the upper control arm to the frame. You will notice the cam bolts have a square washer under the nut. Remove the nuts and square washers from each cam bolt. It is not necessary to slide the cam bolts out of the frame mounts.|
| [DIAGRAM 5] Examine the supplied cam washers (#55-23-9636). You will notice there is a small bung on one side around the slotted hole where the cam bolt goes through. Index the “23” cam washers on the factory bolts as shown with the bung facing the factory frame mounts. In other words, the flat side of each washer should face the nut. Reinstall the nut and tighten the cam bolts (83-113).||After installing and double checking these, I was thrown by the fact that part number stampings can be on either side of the bung and unnecessarily second-guessed a correctly installed cam washer.|
|At this point, we put the Superlift instructions aside to focus on the coilover installation.||Note that all steps must be performed on both sides of the vehicle. Unless you've got a friend helping you, work only on one side at a time.|
|[insert illustration]||A) If you haven't already done so, weld the reinforcing gussets to the shock tower. The longer gussets are meant for the back of the shock tower and the short gussets are meant for the front. These should be welded on to the shock towers with their length overlapping the frame and the towers themselves.|
|Cutting steel with a 5" angle grinder is wicked fun, but wear eye and ear protection. I started without the ear protection and found out what it feels like to have ringing from the noise and hot steel particles land in your ear canal after they bounce off the inside of the wheel well.||B) Cut off the bump stop brackets so they are completely flat and do not extend at all outboard of the frame rails. Note that you still need the part of the bump stop bracket that hangs below the frame rail!
Do not leave any length protruding outboard of the frame rails, or they WILL rub and catch on the coil springs when the suspension compresses.
On the passenger side, you'll also be cutting off a length of the differential lateral support bracket. It should be flush with the frame as well.
|C) Grind/sand to remove any sharp edges left after cutting|
|D) After everything is smooth and has cooled off, give it a shot of degreaser, wipe clean and then paint both the remnants of the bump stop bracket and the newly-welded gussets.|
|E) When the paint is dry, bolt on the longer Daystar bump stops.|
|[insert diagram]||F) Position the lower coilover bracket from ME00Stepside's kit onto the lower control arm so that one of the bracket's holes matches up to an existing hole in the LCA, and so the bracket "folds" itself over the back side of the LCA. Clamp it in position and mark holes for drilling.|
|G) If the bracket hole and the existing hole in the LCA don't line up exactly, you can use the bracket as a guide to enlarge the LCA's hole . In any event, the LCA's hole will need to be enlarged to fit a 3/8" bolt.|
|H) Remove the lower bracket and use a 3/8" cobalt drill bit to drill. I would suggest using a punch to keep your drill from skating off center, and drill a smaller pilot hole if necessary. Between new holes, test-bolt the bracket to the LCA to make sure everything lines up. Adjust markings or holes as necessary.|
|I found that my brackets didn't have the exact same bend to them as was required to wrap around the LCA, so tightening the bolts made the bracket bend some.||I) Give the new holes a quick shot of paint to slow the rust, and when tack-free, use the kit's four 3/8" x 1.25" bolts per side to attach the bracket to the LCA. Tighten them all lightly, then torque them down fully using a rotating pattern.|
|[insert illustration]||J) Using a 1/2" washer and the large round spacer provided with the coilover bracket kit and the 1/2" x 2.25" bolts, temporarily tighten the top bracket to the shock tower. You'll need the thick fender washers (or factory shock absorber washer with hole enlarged to 1/2") at the top.|
|K) Ensuring the bracket is sitting straight in the shock tower, mark the two holes in the back of the bracket for drilling through the shock tower, then remove the bracket.|
|L) On the driver's side shock tower, you'll need to relocate a plastic bracket that routes the brake lines. I'd suggest you drill a new hole about an inch nearer the back of the truck of the original hole for the bracket (drill the same size hole). The bracket should just pop right in; just try to do it in a way that doesn't interfere with the new bracket or its bolts.|
|M) Drill 3/8" holes where you marked through the bracket, through the back of the shock tower, taking care to not damage anything behind the shock tower. Use a piece of wood or steel to protect the brake lines from your drill bit when it punches through.|
|N) Repeating step J, reattach the upper coilover bracket to the shock tower and fasten the 3/8" x 1.25" bolts using 3/8" washers and lock nuts through the back of the shock tower. Tighten the top bolt, then the back ones.|
|O) Assemble the coilover by removing the preload adjustors, then inserting the shock through the coil spring. Put the preload adjustors back on, and finger tighten.|
|[insert diagram]||P) Using a 1/2" x 3" bolt with the narrower rod end spacers, matching 1/2" washers, lock washer and nut, attach the top shock eyelet to the upper bracket. Note correct the orientation of the shock is with the preload adjustors at the top.|
|Q) Using a 1/2" x 3" bolt with the wider rod end spacers, matching 1/2" washers, lock washer and nut, attach the bottom shock eyelet to the lower bracket.|
|R) Tighten the upper and lower shock bolts.|
|17) SUPERLIFT KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY|
Position Superlift knuckle onto lower ball joint stud. Install castellated nut; hand tighten only.
| Slip the knuckle over the CV stub axle, and attach the top end to the upper ball joint. Insert and torque the factory ball joint pinch bolt (35-46).||At this point, you should turn the steering side-to-side (lock to lock) to ensure nothing is catching. The passenger-side Superlift knuckle in my kit did not leave enough room for the outer edge of the lower control arm to move through the opening freely during steering motion.|
I had to spend some time filing and grinding the opening in the new knuckle until I could swivel it freely.
Have some paint handy to cover the part that was ground.
|You may need an assistant or a jack to do this with the coilover in place.|
| Torque lower ball joint nut (83-113), and install new cotter pin.|
CAUTION - Install cotter pin from outboard-to-inboard. Failure to do so will cause damage
to wheel and tire assembly.
|18) RETAINING RING, SNAP RING, and LOCKING HUB|
Vehicles not equipped with vacuum operated hubs should reinstall the CV axle nut. Tighten (162). and proceed to step 19.
Vehicles that are equipped with vacuum operated hubs: Special Tool Note - Ford lists a tool specifically for installing these rings (refer to Ford service manual). The tool would make the job easier, but it is not normally readily accessible. So, these instruction procedures are for
installing the rings using common hand tools.
| Install the metal/plastic retaining ring, with the flat side facing inboard, onto the CV stub axle using snap ring pliers. Be sure the snap ring is fully seated in the snub axle groove.||Not applicable to 2006 and later models.|
| Locking Hub - Be sure the rubber O-ring around the hub is not damaged; obtain replacement O-rings from the dealer before continuing if damage is present. Position the hub onto the wheel hub and tap into place with a rubber hammer. Inspect the locking arms to ensure that they are fully seated in the hub groove.||Not applicable to 2006 and later models.|
|NOTE: It may be necessary to “bounce” the axle and turn the wheel hub to align the locking hub splines. To aid installation, the locking hub should be in the engaged position while mating it to the wheel hub.||Not applicable to 2006 and later models.|
#55-16-9630 (qty. 2) FRONT BRAKE HOSE RELOCATION BRACKET
|This part can't be used with the coilover conversion|
| Reattach the clip that captures both the the vacuum hose and the ABS wiring to the inboard side of the knuckle.||If you find that the self-tapping screws from the factory knuckle are not easily screwing into the new knuckles, DO NOT FORCE THEM. I made the mistake of doing this and broke the screws. Enlarge the holes as necessary using a drill.|
| Bolt the disc brake dust shield-to-knuckle with the 3 factory self-tapping bolts (7-10).|
| Position rotor onto hub. Bolt the disc caliper-to-knuckle (72-97).|
| [DIAGRAM 6] Unbolt the top end of the|
factory rubber brake hose from the frame.
|Bolt the “16” bracket to the frame, as shown,|
using the factory self-tapping bolt. The
rearmost top hole takes the supplied 5/16” x
1” self-tapping bolt. Some vehicles will require this hole to be drilled out to 9/32”.
Carefully pull down and re-form the metal brake line so the rubber hose assembly will bolt to the “16” bracket. Use the furnished 1/4” x 3/4” bolt / Nyloc nut.
|The brake hose relocation bracket won't fit with the coilovers in place, so this step must be skipped.|
|You may want to drill a hole near your brake hose mounting point on the frame so the little pin on the top fitting has a place to go.|
|To ensure a tight seal at your brake hose fittings:|
a) make sure the joints are perfectly clean and
b) use a flare nut wrench so you can tighten the fittings properly
|Refer to your shop manual for the details: the front brakes must be bled when this is complete. Replace the factory brake hoses with the longer Jeep Grand Cherokee units now.|
|20) SUPERLIFT FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS...|
Extend shock to approximate on-vehicle running length of 20-1/2”, and install boot and decal.
|Superlift front shocks are NOT used in the coilover conversion. You can set these aside for sale or discarding.|
| Attach the bottom eye of the shock to the factory location on the lower control arm using the 5/16” x 1” bolts supplied in the shock hardware bag.||Skip this step.|
| Install top half of hardware, then position the upper end of the shock stem through its mounting hole in the shock tower. Install remaining hardware and tighten until bushings swell slightly. Now install jam nut onto stem.||Skip this step.|
|21) TIE RODS, LIMITING STRAPS, and SWAY BAR LINKS:|
(qty. 2) #55-30-9630 EXTENDED SWAY BAR DROP LINK
(qty. 2) #01-99195 LIMITING STRAPS
| Reattach the sway bar body by inverting it from the way it was removed (flip it upside down). (55)|
| [DIAGRAM 7] Place a uss washer, then bushing half on the 3/8” bolt and insert the 3/8” bolt through the lower control arm from the bottom. Slide the spacer on the bolt followed by the buckle on the end of the #01- 99195 limiting strap. Place another busing half, then the sway link body (#55-30-9630) on the bolt followed by another bushing half, sway bar body, bushing, washer, and nut. Tighten the nut until the bushings swell slightly.|
| Be sure the buckle for the limiting strap is positioned inboard of the anti-sway bar link as shown in Diagram 7.|
|[DIAGRAM 7A] There is a factory hole in|
the forward lip of the shock tower. Measure down approximately 3/4” from the factory hole, then mark and drill a 15/32” mounting hole for the upper end of the limiting strap. Route the limiting strap as shown and secure it using
the supplied 7/16” x 1” bolt, washer, and
nyloc nut. Tighten (37).
IMPORTANT: Take care when routing the limiting strap to be sure it does not interfere with the brake line or any other components as the suspension travels through its cycle.
|Using the factory hole for height guidance, you'll need to locate the 15/32" mounting hole to fit near the new gusset. Then, using the 7/16" x 2" bolt and some extra washers as spacers, mount the buckle to the shock tower as shown in the photo.|
| Attach outer tie rod end-to-knuckle (44-59). Install new cotter pin.|
|Repeat steps 12 through 21 on the passenger side.|
NOTE: The swivel links must be serviced according to the routine maintenance schedule for the vehicle. Failure to do so will result in premature wear of the links and unsatisfactory performance.
|22) SKID PLATE #55-13-9630 (OPTIONAL)...|
[DIAGRAM 8] Due to its size and weight, installing the plate is a 2-man job. Position plate
and spacers, as shown, and install with 7/16” x 4” bolts / Nyloc nuts (37). Use furnished SAE flatwashers on both the bolt and nut sides.
|23) TORSION BARS: |
#55-25-9630 DRIVER SIDE TORSION BAR DROP BRACKET, #55-24-9630 PASSENGER SIDE TORSION BAR DROP BRACKET;
#01-19960 TUBE of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER #242 Perform steps one side at a time, starting on the driver’s side.
|Torsion bar installation can be skipped.|
| The torsion bar adjusting bolts have a factory|
applied thread sealant
compound that must be removed prior to applying the Loctite Threadlocker. A wire wheel brush attachment on a bench grinder easily removes the old sealant. Clean the threads now, but do not apply the
Threadlocker until just prior to
| [DIAGRAM 9] Bolt the “25” bracket to the frame and crossmember, as shown. Where the bracket mates to the outboard face of the frame rail, use two of the factory bolts that were originally used on the adjuster arm cover plate (35-46). Use new 7/16” hardware where the “25” bracket mates to the crossmember (37).||Skip.|
| Torsion bar - Match the alignment|
marks on the bar and LCA, then insert the bar into the LCA.
NOTE: Be sure the torsion bars are reinstalled on the same side, and in the same front / rear orientation as they were removed.
| At the bar’s front end, match the alignment marks on the bar and LCA, then insert the bar into the LCA.||Skip.|
| At the bar’s rear end, match the alignment marks on the bar and the adjuster arm.||Skip.|
| Insert the torsion bar insulator into the “25” bracket. Hold the torsion bar / adjuster arm|
against insulator, then position the puller tool.
| Load the puller tool until the factory nut block can be inserted into the “25” bracket. NOTE: Be sure the adjusting bolt seats properly into the adjuster arm recess.|
Apply a small amount of Threadlocker along the full length of the torsion bar adjusting bolt,
then thread the bolt approximately half way into the nut block. Now unload the puller tool.
| Attach the factory adjuster arm cover plate to the “25” bracket. Use new 3/8” Nyloc nuts and flatwashers (13) at the two studs on the bracket’s outboard side. Reuse the factory cover plate bolts and nut clips, removed in Step 2, to attach the bottom end of the cover plate to the Superlift bracket (35-46).||Skip.|
|24) TIRES / WHEELS...|
[DIAGRAM 10] Tighten the lug nuts (100) in the sequence
WARNING: When the tires / wheels are installed, always check for and remove any corrosion, dirt, or foreign material on the wheel mounting surface, or anything that contacts the wheel mounting surface (hub, rotor, etc.). Installing wheels without the proper metal-to metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
WARNING: Retighten lug nuts at 500 miles after any wheel change, or anytime the lug nuts are loosened. Failure to do so could cause wheels to come off while vehicle is in motion.
|Lug nut torque is 100 lb-ft|
|25) CLEARANCE CHECK...|
With the vehicle still on jack stands, and the suspension “hanging” at full extension travel,
cycle steering lock-to-lock and check all components for proper operation and clearances. Pay special attention to the clearance between the tires / wheels and brake hoses, wiring, etc.
| Lower vehicle to the floor.|
|26) REAR LIFT...|
The rear lift is purchased separately and has
separate instructions. Install now.
|Hopefully you did this already in Ranger Lift Chapter 6: Replacing the Leaf Springs|
|27) ADJUSTING FRONT RIDE HEIGHT...|
Manually bounce the front and rear of vehicle
to normalize the torsion bars and leaf springs.
| On each side, fully tighten the LCA-to- crossmember bolts (140).|
| [DIAGRAM 11] Position the vehicle on a level surface. Measure from the LCA front pivot bolt center down to the floor. Record this as Measurement “A”.|
| Now measure from the inside edge of the knuckle (at the lower ball joint boss) down to the|
floor. Record this as Measurement “B”.
|Subtract Measurement “B” from “A” for the ride height figure. Minimum ride height is 3.00”; maximum is 4.00”. Ideal ride height is somewhere in between. Raise height by tightening the torsion bar adjusting bolt; lower height by loosening the bolt. Adjust height 3/8” to 1/2” above the final desired ride height, since the bars will settle slightly after the vehicle is driven.||With 6" Skyjacker springs at the back, you'll want to err on the high side of this range so the front is almost as high as the back.||You'll be using the large and small preload adjustor spanner wrenches to adjust the preload on the coil spring. You can tighten the larger adjustment nut closes to the coil first, then use the smaller one to lock it in place. The coilover body and threads are aluminum, so don't over tighten.|
|NOTE: When adjusting the torsion bars, always bounce the vehicle after 1-2 rotations of the adjuster bolt. This will reset the torsion bars to the new ride height and will allow more accurate adjustments. Always bounce the vehicle before taking a measurement.|
|NOTE: Exceeding the stated minimum or maximum heights will cause the suspension to continually “top out” or “bottom out”. This results in a harsh ride, accelerated suspension component wear, and possibly component failure.||See The Ranger Owner’s Guide To Getting A Lift for more info about this.||This principle applies equally to coilovers.|
|28) FINAL CLEARANCE and TORQUE CHECK...|
With vehicle on floor, cycle steering lock-to-lock and inspect the tires / wheels, and the steering, suspension, and brake systems for proper operation, tightness, and adequate clearance.
|29) Activate four wheel drive system and check front hubs for engagement||Only required for pre 2006 Rangers|
Readjust headlights to proper setting.
|31) SUPERLIFT NAME BADGE AND WARNING DECAL...|
Install the WARNING TO DRIVER decal on the inside of the windshield, or on the dash, within driver’s view.
|Read and remember the info on the sticker, then keep it in glove box in case it's ever needed for a warranty claim.|
Realign vehicle to factory specifications. Record the ride height measurement at time of alignment. If the torsion bars settle excessively in the future, alignment can be restored by adjusting-up the bars to their original ride height.
|This principle applies equally to coilovers.|
- How-to on an Explorer : lots of good photos. (The Explorer of that model year range had near-identical front suspension components, though his brackets are home made).
- Short Video of a Superlift-only Installation on YouTube, highlights of different stages of installation
This is about everything you need to do in order to get your truck Superlifted with coilovers and Skyjacker springs. I would greatly appreciate any feedback from readers so that I can continuously improve this article and keep it current.